Rocket Espresso Appartamento/troubleshooting
From Whole Latte Love Support Library
Removing the Housing on Your Machine
Sometimes while troubleshooting, it can be necessary to go inside your machine, whether to inspect for an unfamiliar noise, an ever elusive leak, or just for routine maintenance. You won't need to remove the housing of your machine for every scenario, but these instructions will come in handy in case you find yourself in a situation where you do. If you don't feel comfortable working inside of your machine, feel free to contact a member of our technical support team for further assistance.
Removing the Housing on Your Machine
No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots
Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.
The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:
- Tamping The Correct Way and The Effects Of Tamping Pressure
- Grinding Coffee For Espresso
- It is important to use fresh beans, typically beans roasted within the past two weeks are best. Light and medium roasts are best for espresso brewing and richer crema. Storing beans properly is also important, more information can be found here.
If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.
Difficulty Frothing
As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.
How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More
Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.
6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes
It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.
How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk
Flow Issues
The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section.
No Steam From Wand / No Hot Water From Hot Water Tap
- Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
- If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
- If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
- If there's no hot water from the hot water tap, check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam from the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
- If there's no steam from the steam wand, check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
- Check the steam gauge of the machine. Does it show pressure? Typical range for the steam gauge should be 1-1.2 Bar.
- If the gauge is within the 1-1.2 Bar range, then the steam wand is likely blocked.
- Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored, then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
- If the flow is still blocked, then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
- If there still isn't flow, then there may be a blockage farther back in the steam circuit. The machine may need to be professionally cleaned to remove the blockage.
How to Diagnose Hot Water and Steam System Obstructions
- If the gauge is not reaching 1-1.2 Bar, but it is pressurizing some, then the steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted.
- When adjusting the pressurestat, only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.
- If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure, try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.
- If the gauge sometimes reaches 1-1.2 Bar, but flicks around a lot or randomly drops to zero, or is always sitting at zero, then the steam boiler is not building pressure for some reason.
- If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up, then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.
Vacuum Relief Tear Down Instructions
- The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Instructions for resetting the high limit switches can be found below after the cover is removed. Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged.
- While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
- If there weren't any disconnected wires, then the pressurestat will need to be replaced.
Poor Or No Flow From Grouphead
If the steam/hot water for the machine is working fine then there is likely something causing a blockage or pressure issue in the brew circuit. Otherwise refer to the section of this article that discusses the machine not flowing at all.
- If a water softener is attached to the inlet line of the machine, it may be preventing water from flowing. Please remove the softener and see if the flow improves.
- The grouphead is dirty and needs to be cleaned.
- Taking apart the grouphead for manual cleaning is the first step. This should be done on a monthly basis. The instructions can be found here.
- If cleaning the grouphead restores flow to the grouphead, the machine should be immediately backflushed to prevent further flow issues.
Maintaining Your Espresso Machine - Backflushing
- There might be a kinked, broken, or loose line somewhere in the machine. Remove the top of the machine and take a look inside to see if you see any obvious issues.
- There might be an issue with one of the internal valve assemblies, which may need to be cleaned or replaced.
How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve
No Flow At All
- Note: There may be a kinked, broken, or loose line somewhere in the machine. Remove the top of the machine and take a look inside to look for any obvious issues.
If the machine is set to the plumbed mode:
- First try switching to the reservoir mode temporarily and see if it resolves the issue. If this resolves the flow issue, then the issue is specific to the inlet plumb line, and you should go to the next step. Otherwise keep the machine in reservoir mode and skip down to the next section which deals with testing the "No Flow" issue for the machine in reservoir mode.
- Return the machine to plumb mode. The next thing to check is to see if we can isolate where the flow issue is occurring for the plumb line. Try putting the plumb line hosing into an external bucket or container filled with water and see if the machine will draw water from this source. If it can't, then there may be a blockage somewhere in the plumb line itself.
- If you are able to draw water from the plumb line, then there may be an issue with the plumbing supplying this line.
If the machine is set to use the reservoir:
- If the pump does not sound like it is activating:
- Check to make sure the water tank is filled, and the machine isn't indicating that the water tank is empty.
- If the tank is empty, refill it.
- If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocking the tank from sitting flush inside the machine.
- Remove the cover of the machine and check for any loose or disconnected wires.
- Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses.
- There may be an issue with the water tank sensor. The tank's level sensor is not compatible with reverse osmosis or zero waters because of their lack of mineral content. The sensor depends on minerals being in the water to pass an electrical signal which tells the machine that water is present in the tank. Waters that don't have enough mineral content will not be able to pass this electrical signal, so the machine will not think water is present.
- There may be an issue with the pump powering on.
- If the pump does sound like it is activating:
- Check the water tank to make sure it is filled and that both the inlet line and the return lines are inserted into the tank. Make sure the inlet line in particular is below the surface of the water.
- If you are using the water softener on the inlet line, try removing it and see if water can flow through the machine.
- Open up the machine. Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses anywhere.
- There may be a stuck valve inside the machine.
Machine Is Leaking
Between Portafilter & Grouphead
If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically, grouphead gaskets will wear out in approximately 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the leaking is originating from farther up on the grouphead assembly and then draining down to where the portafilter is attached, then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the grouphead.
If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. Instructions for replacing the gasket can be found in this document. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.
The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping screws and partially screw them into the group gasket. Make sure not to go all the way through the gasket because you can scratch/dent the grouphead if you go too far. Then use a pair of pliers to pull on the screws and the gasket will pull out with them.
Replacing the Group Gasket on Your E61 Group Head
From The Grouphead
This section addresses leaking which is coming directly from the grouphead, known as the E-61 style. If the machine is experiencing leaking between the grouphead and the portafilter refer to the section of this article which discusses grouphead gasket issues.
- There are multiple valves and o-rings which are part of the E-61 itself. Depending on where the leak is coming from, it may indicate an issue with one or more of these assemblies.
- If the leaking is coming from the lever arm of the machine, then there is an o-ring that is loose, dirty, or worn out. A blowout of the lever assembly can be seen on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram. The o-rings that will need to be checked are listed as part 7 and part 14, and the valve assembly listed as part 11.
- To access these o-rings remove the end cap of the lever assembly using a flathead screwdriver.
- Once this is removed the other components of the grouphead assembly can begin to be slipped off. The bolts that the lever slides into can be removed with open ended wrenches or an adjustable wrench.
- Inspect the o-rings and make sure they are not damaged. It's possible that they are just dirty and need to be cleaned off and reseated. If they are damaged, broken, or shows signs of chaffing then they will need to be replaced.
- Inspect the valve components as well to make sure they are intact.
- Reassemble the components and see if leaking is resolved.
- If the leak is coming from the top bolt assembly, then there is an o-ring that is loose, dirty, or worn out. A blowout of the top valve assembly, known as the mushroom or trumpet valve, can be found on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram. There are a few components which can be contributing to the leaking. There are two o-rings, listed as parts 2, 6, and 7 on this page of the diagram. There is also a valve assembly shown as part 9 on the same page.
- To access these parts use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the smaller top bolt of the E-61. This will give you access to the first o-ring and spring assembly.
- To access further down into this part of the grouphead use a wrench to remove the large bolt. This will let you access the other o-ring, another spring assembly, and the other valve assembly.
- Inspect all of these components for integrity. Clean any dirty parts and replace any broken parts.
- Reassemble the grouphead and see if the leaking is resolved.
- If the leak is coming from the relief valve on the bottom of the E-61, then there may be an o-ring that is loose/dirty or a valve inside the E-61 that is stuck open. A blowout of the bottom valve assembly, known as the release valve, can be found on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram. There are two o-rings in this assembly, listed as parts 7 and 31 on the diagram, and two valve assemblies, listed as parts 25 and 28 on the diagram, that can be causing the leak.
- To access these parts use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the smaller bottom bolt. You will be able to access part 31, the o-ring, and part 28, one of the valve assemblies. Inspect the parts. If they are dirty clean them off, if they are broken replace them.
- To access the next o-ring and valve assembly use a wrench to remove the larger of the bolts. Again, inspect the parts for cleanliness and damage. Clean or replace as needed.
- Reassemble the release valve and test to see if the leaking is resolved.
- If cleaning and repairing a particular valve assembly has not worked, then it may be prudent to do a complete cleaning of the E-61 grouphead assembly. Instructions for cleaning the entire E-61 can be found by clicking here.
- If the machine is leaking between the grouphead and the faceplate of the machine where the grouphead attaches, then there may be a bad gasket or loose bolts. There are two possible reasons for the machine to be leaking from here.
- The other possibility is that the E-61 group chassis gasket is not sealing tightly, or is worn out or damaged and will need to be replaced. The chassis gasket is listed as part 10 on p.6 of the parts diagram. There are two bolts which secure the E-61 to the machine chassis, causing it to press on the gasket and create a seal. The bolt assemblies are located behind the grouphead on the inside of the machine. Try tightening these two bolts down; if tightening these bolts does not resolve the leak, then the chassis gasket will need to be replaced.
From Bottom Of Machine
- Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure there are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine.
- Open the machine and check all of the connections to make sure they are securely attached.
- Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these components to crack. These parts will need to be replaced if they are cracked.
- Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected.
- Check the various valves located on top of the boiler assembly.
- If water is leaking from the relief valves, then the boiler may be overfilling. Distilled, reverse osmosis, and zero water are not compatible with this style of machine as the water level probe depends on minerals in the water to detect its presence. These water types do not contain minerals, and so the machine will continuously fill until it overflows, usually resulting in water leaking from the relief valves.
- If water is leaking from the relief valves even though you are using a water that contains minerals, then you may need to clean the water level probe.
- If the machine is plumbed, then there may be too much pressure at the inlet line. The pressure restrictor may need to be adjusted, or if you do not have a pressure restrictor installed you may need to install one.
- If the valves are leaking directly from where they screw into the boiler, then they may have a broken seal. Try resealing the valves by using white teflon plumbers tape or food safe permabond and screwing them back into the boiler.
- If there are any broken or cracked hoses, or hoses with pinhole leaks, they will need to be replaced.
- If your machine features drain plumbing, make sure the drain line is securely attached and that water is being correctly directed into the drain cup.
- If you cannot find the source of the leak, it's possible the water you are seeing is from water spilled when refilling the machine, or from the drip tray being out of position. It is also possible to run the unit with the casing off to help identify the source of the leak; precautions should be taken to protect yourself from any exposed wiring or hot water or steam that comes from the machine if you attempt this.
Steam From Top Of Machine
If there is steam coming from the top of the machine then one of the relief valves is venting steam.
- If the steam is leaking from the machine while it is heating up, with more and more steam coming from the top as the machine heats more, then the steam is coming from the vacuum relief valve.
- The vacuum relief valve is meant to vent steam until a certain amount of pressure has built up in the boiler. It is normal for this valve to vent steam as the machine is heating. Once enough steam pressure is built up in the boiler the valve will pop closed.
- If the machine is fully heated and the vacuum relief valve is still not closing then it may need to be cleaned.
- If cleaning the vacuum relief valve has not resolved the issue, then the vacuum relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.
- If the steam is leaking from the machine after it is fully heated, then the pressure relief valve may be relieving excess steam pressure.
- The pressurestat may need to be lowered. If the pressure is set too high the relief valve may open.
- The pressure relief may be stuck open.
- If the relief valve is still opening, then either the pressurestat or the relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.
From Steam Wand Or Hot Water Tap
- If either wand is leaking from the end of the wand, it means the steam/hot water valve is not fully closed.
- Make sure the knob is securely in the closed position.
- If the knob feels loose, or doesn't appear to be properly engaging, then there may be a loose or broken part in the knob assembly.
- If the leaking persists, then the corresponding valve may need to be replaced.
- If the wand is leaking between the tip and the arm of the wand during use, there is an o-ring that is broken, missing, or out of position. Unscrew the tip that is leaking and check the o-ring that seals the tip to the wand. Make sure all of the parts are clean and that the o-ring isn't damaged or broken. The metal steam or hot water tips can be soaked in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for more effective cleaning.
- If the wand is leaking from the ball joint, then there may an o-ring that is worn out or out of position.
- These instructions apply to both the steam and hot water wands. First remove the wand arm. This can be done by unscrewing the hex shaped nut at the top of the arm using an adjustable or open-ended wrench.
- Once the wand is removed you may have parts stick to the valve assembly. Do not lose these parts. A blowout of both wand assemblies can seen on p.10 of the parts diagram.
- There are a few different o-rings in this assembly. Make sure everything is clean and that the o-ring aren't damaged or broken.
- Inspect the tension spring, listed as part 10 on p.10, to make sure it is in good condition. The spring should be really firm. If it is easily compressed then it may need to be replaced. The bottom of the spring will have a metal gasket, which helps the wand pivot on the spring Make sure these parts are clean and reinstall them.
Machine Not Heating Or Powering On
No Power
- Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
- Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
- Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
- Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
- If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.
Brew Not Heating
- Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
- Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
- The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
- The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset. Instructions for resetting the high limit switches can be found below after the cover is removed. Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged.
- The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.
Steam Not Heating
- If the machine is producing steam, but you think it's not producing enough steam, make sure that you are purging the line before frothing. To purge the line simply open the steam knob and let steam come through until it changes from mostly water to mostly steam. When steam leaves the boiler and hits the cold wand it is going to condense back into water. If you do not purge the line it will affect the way the steam wand froths.
- Make sure the steam boiler is turned on for the machine. Most prosumer units feature a switch, button, or PID menu option to turn the steam boiler off.
- Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
- Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
- The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower brew temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
- The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset. Instructions for resetting the high limit switches can be found below after the cover is removed. Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged.
- The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.
On But Not Heating
The tank's level sensor is not compatible with reverse osmosis or zero waters because of their lack of mineral content. The sensor depends on minerals being in the water to pass an electrical signal which tells the machine that water is present in the tank. Waters that don't have enough mineral content will not be able to pass this electrical signal, so the machine will not think water is present, and will not heat as a result.
- There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
- The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped. Instructions for resetting the high limit switches can be found below after the cover is removed. Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged.
- The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.
Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine
- On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
- Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
- Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
- The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.
What is Preinfusion?
Pre-infusion is what allows a small amount of water through first, before beginning the shot. It allows this water to saturate the coffee and get the grounds equally wet. This can make the coffee extract more smoothly. Water will always take the path of least resistance. By letting the water saturate the grinds before brewing at 9 bars of pressure, this can help prevent channeling.
Pre-infusion on the E61 Brew Group